Backgammon and Hookah

Had a great second day in Istanbul.  Teri arrived safely this afternoon so the three of us quickly set out for some dining and people watching.  After having dinner in a repurposed museum we stopped for dessert and a night cap in Taksim.  The alley was lined with locals playing backgammon and smoking hookah.  Since Orthodox Muslims don't drink alcohol, hookah bars serve a similar purpose as Western pubs and bars in that they provide a place to congregate, socialize, and relax with friends.  The flavored tobacco has a more pleasant scent than cigarette smoke and was reminiscent of my grandfather's pipe.  I couldn't help wondering if he would have enjoyed sharing his apple tobacco and passing the pipe around to all his neighbors...  

Turkey Day 1 - Escaping the Airport

We arrived in Istanbul nearly 24 hours after waking up Thursday morning. The journey from Ataturk Airport baggage claim to the apartment (10 miles from the airport) felt as though it took nearly as long. I had forgotten how "exciting" it can be to travel in developing countries. The series of events went something like this: driver doesn't show, airport concierge calls hotel, guy at rental car counter is alerted, argument ensues...we're asked to wait 10 minutes, 20 minutes later no one comes, we ask again, mix and repeat twice...finally someone comes to get us and we make it to the garage. Driver inserts key in ignition, car doesn't start, repeat three times... Angela says "car is not good", driver begins to argue with other men at rental car desk, bags are moved to new car...1/2 way out of the garage we notice the gas gauge is below empty. Angela asks about "petrol?" which nearly sends the driver into a seizure. Car is turned around, back to the rental car desk, another argument ensues between the men. Finally we get to the garage exit and the gate is stuck...and on and on and on...finally, a couple hours later we make it to our apartment and promptly crash.

We woke this morning at 5am for a jog along the Bosphorus. With each mile hints of Turkish culture revealed themselves. We quickly noticed that the courtesy smile and "good morning" that's customary when passing people on the streets is the US is typically met with stern glances or blank stares here. Later it occurred to us that of the hundreds of people we'd passed in well over an hour, almost none of them were women. I romanticized that this is because Turkish men so revere their women they insist they sleep in on Saturday morning. It's very apparent to us how much freedom women have in the States and a bit unsettling to be reminded that not every culture approaches equality the same.

Toward the end of our run cafes and roadside stands were beginning to open. The stench in the streets was replaced by the smell of butter, bread, and honey. We're looking forward to a day of exploration and of course eating! The photo below is of a neighbor we met on the street early this morning...